The design engineers at Fender have taken elements from such. I found some water based contact cement (in a tube like caulking) that was thin enough to work in the syringe/needle. The Fender SUPER 60 is another step up in the evolution of High Performance tube amplifiers. So the needle allows you to get glue in without having to remove any of the covering. It's great for gluing down carpet type coverings that aren't torn, just loose. Because of this I only use it for small repairs.Īnd to get into tricky areas I use a syringe with a large needle. You have to make sure you get it on both surfaces and let it get tacky, then you have to get it to fit right the first time, as once it's down you can't adjust it. Unless someone has enlarged the hole in the faceplate, in which case you will need to find a washer to do the job.įor small rips in tolex etc. It should be installed after the faceplate, so it holds the faceplate down, like the pic attached. It looks like the flange is on the wrong side of the faceplate, as if the bulb holder was installed before the faceplate went on. In your pic you can see there is a flange where the bulb holder meets the chassis. Like nonreverb stated, the bulb holder should be securing the faceplate to the front panel. Sam was one of the first guys to do authentic restorations of vintage Fender' Sam Hutton told me to use Hide Glue, he used to work at Fender in the 60's and that is what they used. for touch ups I use titebond carpenters glue or elmers wood glue. You can get it from Stewmac or even ebay. You can use an old electric frying pan to melt it. Does not lift, dries hard (your cabinet will sound better), not soft like contact adhesives. Just like what the factories use (at least the old USA companies). The kind you melt in a pot with equal parts water. 'The Best glue to use for tolex is Hide Glue. There have been some good threads on this. I use WeldBond for the Tolex too but purists use an aerosol spray product from 3M. The WeldBond has the advantage of drying faster but if you have a good jig to keep the faces under pressure then who cares? Just leave it for an extra day.

I have removed faceplates and it looked like Fender and others used ordinary contact cement, like the LePage's stuff in the yellow cans. Get a clear shots of the chassis, faceplate, back plate, every detail you can. Never had experience with this amp before. You do need to clamp it or keep pressure on the faceplate somehow. I have the option to try out and buy a 1964 Bandmaster. I've had good results with ordinary white WeldBond from Home Depot.

Fender bandmaster faceplate